Sunday, May 3, 2009

Chillin' at Kivu

When I close my eyes, I can still see them. Hulking blue mountains, layer upon layer of hauntingly beautiful hills-a backdrop to a seamless horizon. I asked my friend "Are those clouds or mountains?" She answered "Mountains." Across the lake was a thinly veiled blue line, darker than the blue of the sky- the Congo.
(I know my pictures won't do it justice.)
The 3 hour drive to Kibuye in an 8-seater van with 16 people in it, on winding roads with a driver who uses the lowest gear going uphill to conserve fuel and then puts it in neutral as we weave down and around 45* bends- was quite the thrill ride ! On the return trip we nearly took out a cow, his shepherd and a cyclist as we veered around blind corners and were witness to no less than THREE fuel trucks overturned in ditches.
We arrived at Centre Bethanie to discover that our rooms overlooked Lake Kivu. If not for the active volcano in the distance, it could be mistaken for a cottage in the Muskokas. At night the volcano glowed a bright orange and during the day it looked like a geometric-shaped cloud-making machine as it pumped out puffs of white cottonballs from its' top shelf! We went for a swim, had breakfast and then booked a boat to Amahoro Island only to discover many other tourists there (Americans!) and a previously unmentioned 1,000 Rfr "boarding the island" fee. No thanks ! We directed the boat driver to an island just in the distance and set up camp amongst the trees and rocky ground.
Immediately, myself and two other VSOs set off "To explore!" and decided to circumnavigate the entire island ! It was a blast- in particular because the only way to do this was on foot, crawling and clamboring over the rocky shore b/c the torso of the island was too thick with brush and thorny nettles to cross. (I have to say this might be the highlight so far of my time here). We slipped in several times, had to abandon various items (like sandals and cellphones) along the way and retrieve them later by boat and had fun debating if there were any other mammals sharing this island with us (in particular VSO-eating warthogs !) The aimless, careless abandon with which we explored reminded me a little of the adrenalin rush I get when skiing out of bounds at Sunshine Village with Jay. Always a little unsure if it's a good idea, assessing the risks and ambling on anyway- good fun !!
Other firsts:
Riding a moto at night on a dirt road... in a skirt ! I'll have to get a picture of me on one of these motos so you can truly appreciate what it's like. I have to say, I really enjoy my moto rides now. It's quite freeing and adventurous. I had dinner with 7 other VSOs across town. It's been great to meet other expats. They are friendly, generous and I can tell that I will make some lasting friendships here.
The scenic drive to Kibuye gave me a lot of insight into the rural Rwanda. We drove through Kamonyi (my future placement?). Almost every inch of the countryside is cultivated. It's not uncommon to see a girl of 8 or 9 working on the hillside, digging or swinging a pickaxe at the dirt- with no adult in sight- cultivating the land. Even younger kids wander about the side of the road, children of 3 or 4- some carrying tiny versions of jerrycans. It's a wonder. Today on the city bus home (after the bus from Kibuye dropped us off), two little boys about the age of 2 boarded with a granny. Because the bus had nearly 20 people on it, granny got shuffled to the back and one kid ended up by the door and one ended up in the aisle. Neither kid cried for granny and granny didn't say anything either. Instead, whoever was nearest to each child, picked them up respectively and sat them on their knee. The bus driver's assistant even at one point, lifted one of them off the bus, to allow other passengers off and then lifted him by the arm back on the bus. It was as if each Rwandan was personally responsible for the wellbeing of these two toddlers until granny reached her stop and dismounted the bus with her two little charges. What's that expression- it takes a village to raise a child?
Well, I'm quite tired, unsure of what tomorrow holds and have this unsettling feeling of happiness warming over me right now. Is it possible that I'm enjoying Rwanda already?
'Night.

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