Thursday, April 30, 2009

Great Day !!

Today was great. The country director called me directly and I think the placement details will work themselves out eventually. I went into Kigali on the bus -the bus driver's assistant was wearing a Toronto Maple Leafs sweater !!! Tina took me to set up my bank account - hourray! and she showed me all the essentials like the post office, the doctor's office, the best book shop (which by the way is full of French language resources) and some cute African craft shops. I bought a keychain that makes me laugh. Instead of saying "I love you" it is inscribed :
"I LAUGH YOU"- I guess a little lost in translation but I get a chuckle when I look at it. When I get keys for my new house, I will use it as a keychain. I saw Hotel Mille Collines- it's right downtown and tomorrow I am going to Lake Kivu for the weekend with 12 other VSOs !! I am soooo excited to have a little fun and see some of the countryside ! Tonight I am having dinner at Chez Lando. I'm sure by Monday I will have some more pictures to post. For now, I have faith that everything is going to get a little easier. I did learn that my house will not have electricity- eek! Talk soon, bye.

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Happy Blogs

K, this cutie in the photo approached me today on my walk and started posing. What a nice reminder of why I'm here. There is a primary school next door to this guest house. It's like a promise of things to come. I just reread my previous blogs and am disappointed about all the griping. It felt good to write them at the time but I don't like reading them. This is going to be a quick, happy blog.
I had dinner tonight with three VSOs. Seeing their house and sitting down to a meal with friends was great. They are somewhat shocked by my stories- their experiences were NOT like that at all. Today at dinner I also heard funny anecdotes about giant moths with teddy bear faces, tarantulas in the bathroom- YES, ACTUAL TARANTULAS, and stand-offs with rats of various sizes inside the house.
As I mentioned, I went for a walk today with my camera- my good one. I took lots of scenic shots, it takes a long time to upload them so it won't be up tonight, maybe soon. I was walking because I had spent most of the day, unsuccessfully, trying to meet my employer. Good news, they are looking for a new house for me. Yippee ! And I've been invited away for the weekend to Kibuye which is on Lake Kivu, I'm seriously considering going :)
Kind of what keeps me going is the thought of actually getting into a classroom and working with the local teachers. I remember my day in the classroom in Ghana and how completely uplifting the whole teaching experience was. Perhaps, as I sit here completely exhausted and fairly discouraged, the memory of that day will sustain me.
Must sleep.
Tomorrow another VSO is going to take me into town and help me set up the mysterious bank account. A demain mes amis !!

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Things that make you go hmmm?

I had another "interesting" day. I want to blog about it but don't want this in any way to reflect my opinions of VSO as I have met many wonderful employees and have felt very welcomed and appreciated. I know that my working relationships will survive these challenges and I am still feeling very positive about the whole thing. I imagine this is just a set of unfortunate circumstances? and look forward to the difficulties being minimized soon.
That disclaimer out of the way, here we go:
Went to the office at 9am, meeting didn't happen until 11am. Was told (incorrectly) that I have to pay for my household equipment myself, that my VISA app. is underway (it's not) and then it was suggested that I move into my house even though it does not have a solid roof.. and by the way you'll have no electricity- here is how you use a kerosene stove and charcoal. Bruce (another Education VSO) suggested I come to Gitarama today and he would take me on a school visit with him in the morning but I asked and was told to stay here in Kigali :( There were still no arrangements to take me into town so I hopped on a motobike myself with my large empty backpack. This time I kept my eyes open for the ride, my legs weren't jelly but I did vomit a little in my mouth :)
Went to the bank again- did not have 2 passport photos required. Called office. Oh yeah, come back and get them. Strike two with the setting up of the bank account. Went to a shop called Nakumatt which is the Wal-mart of Rwanda. Am considering once I'm in my house of spending some of my own money on a lazy-boy recliner I saw there. Maybe? Spent my household allowance on pots, pans and a pillow- all of which fit nicely in my large backpack. Walked on my own through the open market which unlike Ghana, has vendors but not overly aggressive ones. Random shops with random things. It was nice to get my bearings because though I had been there on Friday briefly, I couldn't have told you which way was up at that point. I did get hassled a fair bit but like I mentioned in my previous blog, once you establish a smile and hello, the tone of the interaction changes completely. I've come to think also that maybe because of my experiences with Mike, I am somewhat used to being stared at in public and it doesn't really bother me. I never once felt unsafe or threatened. With the altitude, I get worn out quickly and after 2 hours of walking- and no money to buy lunch, I hailed a mototaxi and returned to the office.
I think they were more than a little surprised that I had gone into town alone and returned with my supplies but I had insisted several times on a driver taking me and not gotten anywhere with the request. I feel better that I atleast have a pot for cooking so if I do end up having to go to my house very soon, I'll be able to cook something- assuming I don't blow myself up with the kerosene stove !
Now, the best news of the day is that a few emails I put in yesterday to the Country Director (who is in UK with newborn twins) and to my VSO boss (who is on assignment in Ethiopia) have been answered and I think some of these logistical nightmares will be dealt with tomorrow.
I am considering being firm about the house. Interestingly enough I was offered two choices:
A) Live at the Catholic Diocese in a one-room, the nuns will cook all my meals, I'll have a 6pm curfew and be allowed NO visitors or B) a 3-room house of my own with no electricity but I can hire a domestic to do my cooking, it has a fence around it but no roof. I seriously considered the nuns but I think those restrictions (of curfew and no visitors) will turn out to be quite limiting a few months from now when I have my routines established. I have thought seriously about insisting on electricity but am wondering if I should atleast give it a try without first? Any thoughts on this people? FYI: I had Mr. Noodles and an orange for dinner.

This is Rwanda

David asked me yesterday what the view from my window was and I did an inadequate job of describing it to him. Basically, I feel inhibited by my vocabulary. Think of the green hills of Scotland, now picture them in all four directions with a backdrop of marshmallow-white clouds and perfect blue sky. The green is really green. You know when you buy a set of pencil crayons (not the 12pak but the 64pak) and there are like 8 different shades of green? Yeah, that's the foliage in Rwanda -all eight pencil crayons! The temperature hovers around 24-27 with a cool breeze- it's the rainy season. The birds make strange sounds pretty much 24/7 with a range of chirping, hooting, clucking, doorbell rings and what can only be described as "angry bird singing". In particular the one that lives outside my window- (although I have no idea what I've done to piss him off.) The air is very fragrant, even so much as stopping to acknowledge the perfume aroma near a purple bush. Today I experienced my first rain storm- as I was trying to nap no less ! and the buckets of rain made me dream of being inside a washing machine on rinse cycle. The rolling thunder was like a giant's grumbling hungry belly. (I did end up going down to the lobby to chat with my friends at the frontdesk during the storm- not that I was scared or anything?! )
The street is in constant motion. At the nearest intersection to my guest house, there are always around 60 or so people- mostly men ages 25-40-milling about. They chuckle, whistle and stare. For the most part, I greet this with a "Miriwe" or "Bonjour, comment ca va?". In training we learned the importance of making local contacts and somehow I think that friendliness will pay off in the end. I spoke earlier of the "guarded" nature of Rwandans. One can only imagine the motivation behind their wariness of others. The important thing I've noticed is that after a smile and a hello, most locals become quite friendly. I have had several very helpful encounters with complete strangers. At the bank (for the second time today I was denied an account), a young man asked if he could help me and then after my exchange at the teller, followed up to see if I had gotten what I needed. At the local store, the clerk gave back the extra francs I had accidentally paid her- (any advice on how to convert from Canadian $1 to $500 Rfr more quickly would be greatly appreciated- my human calculator is broken). When I have encountered challenges, right alongside them seems to be a Rwandan stranger, intent on helping me solve the problem.
Now, I'm not sure how to describe the darker side I've seen. It is in no way reflective of the nature of Rwandans, but merely their unfortunate circumstances. I'm fairly certain that I have not yet processed all that I've seen. Here it is in "Coles Notes" version. There are many people here missing limbs. I had to say "no" to a man on crutches today who was selling batik because I had no francs. I was actively pursued by two limbless men in wheelchairs in downtown Kigali. Women with babies at their breasts beg me for money in groups. A little boy lifted up his shirt to pat his belly and asked for food. I have decided to take this all in and acknowledge that I cannot possibly help them financially. Instead I will greet every person I see with eye contact, a warm smile and speak what little kinyarwanda I know. I recognize how insufficient and lacking this approach is but my humanity is all I can afford to offer.
In my conversations with David and Leah last night, the subject of the genocide came up. It is hard for me to think about it but also impossible not to. I realize that the people I pass on the street are not all victims, some are perpetrators. My guest house faces Chez Lando where horrible things happened and on the way to town you pass a church that Dallaire speaks about in his book. I wanted to write the truth about what I'm seeing and feeling. No matter how difficult. Not to worry, my next post (which I'm going to write momentarily) will have you chuckling at my expense as I describe my logistical nightmare- here's a preview: my house has no roof.. "you move in, it's okay, maybe we fix?"
Thanks for reading.

Monday, April 27, 2009

My Productive (?) Day in Kigali

Today was a little challenging. I was at the office at 10 and by 12:30 my scheduled appointment still had not arrived. I met another VSO who took me downtown with her and I had lunch with three new friends. As it is unclear whether or not my house is ready, I am in limbo at the Guest House in Kigali. Most of my attempts to "get things done" have been laughable. I think the challenge lies in the fact that most volunteers arrive together and therefore figure things out amongst themselves. I do not have that luxury. So after lunch, I headed out to find a replacement phone (the one I bought Friday has ceased to function). I'm pretty sure I got ripped off but having no phone is unacceptable around here. I might try and return the damaged phone at some point but we'll see. I also need to get household equipment like pots and pans/blankets/pillow/jerrycans but doing that without a driver to bring them home is impossible. My next task was setting up a bank account. I went to the bank to try and set one up. The letter VSO had given me was not sufficient and after waiting 45 minutes in line to get to the teller was told that I couldn't set up an account. At this point I'm on my own in downtown Kigali, there are ominous gray clouds overhead and my only choices to get back home are taxi (expensive), bus (can't find the bus stop) or mototaxi (looks like suicide on wheels). Feeling pretty overwhelmed, I find the nearest African gift shop so that I can buy myself a little trinket to lift my spirits. I don't see anything I like except lots of ceramic turtles (I have too many turtle things as it is) so I leave the shop. Getting harassed on the street is commonplace and I think it's wearing on me a bit. I was feeling quite low and then.. "Rebecca?" I turn around and there is Victor- the charming "businessman" kid I met yesterday on my walk to the Amahoro Stadium. He is selling batik (artwork that his brother has made such as postcards and maps) with a friend. I have to say, seeing Victor and chatting with him absolutely made my day. It made me wonder, had I waited to try again at the bank, had I gotten right into a taxi or lingered longer at the store- would our paths have crossed?
I get a text from my morning appointment that he will meet me now at the office. I hail a mototaxi driver and remind him "Slow, slow, slow" and put on the helmet he gives me with a cracked faceshield. I think my eyes were closed for the first few minutes of the trip. I was torn between looking and not looking as we weaved in and out of traffic and over speedbumps and potholes. It was quite the ride. When we arrived, I dismounted and my legs were like jell-o. It is highly unlikely that I will learn to ride one of these myself !
So I head back to the office to meet my appointment, wait about 20 minutes and he doesn't show. It's 5pm. I decide enough is enough and head home. Altogether I'm not sure what I accomplished today. I'm glad I have a working phone, I'm glad to have met Victor again (I bought four of his brother's postcards- a sure "pick me up" souvenir !) and I met three new VSO friends. Maybe all in all it was a productive day. I skyped with Leah and David and then went out around 8:30pm to find dinner. Amazingly American Pie 2 was on at the restaurant- in kinyarwanda !! Last I heard my house still isn't ready- my curiosity has peaked.
Tomorrow I will attempt once again to head into town and get my much needed supplies and try again at the bank- but I think this time I'll travel by bus :)
Cheers !

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Kigali Adventures

Greetings from Kigali ! I have officially been in Rwanda for three days but it feels more like three weeks on account of all the stories I have to tell you. To begin with, the travel here was quite extensive- flying from Toronto to London to Nairobi- over 32 hours. I met my first Rwandan friend Alice at the Nairobi airport, where in typical African fashion, she invited me to visit her in Kigali once I'm settled in and gifted me a bracelet and two rings. Arriving in Kigali, I was pleased to meet Jean-Claude, my local Program Support Officer. We went to the Program Office and I met the staff, had my first Kinyarwanda language lesson and returned to the Guest House- where I was asleep by 7:30pm. The following day, Bosco (our driver) and I went with Chantal and Norbert (two other VSOs) to register with the Canadian Embassy, visit the polyclinic, the dental office and the markets. Chantal is Kenyan and she helped me barter for a phone and some basic food/cooking supplies to survive my first week in Kamonyi- a very rural village southwest of Kigali where I will be living. In the afternoon I met with Charlotte my VSO boss and we discussed my placement which revolves around teaching "child-centred methodology" to primary teachers at six schools in the Kamonyi District. I am very excited about the job description and equally excited to meet my colleagues and see my house !
On Saturday, Charlotte and I went to lunch at a very nice coffee shop and met up with Christine (another VSO). Christine had secured us an invitation to the Canadian Ambassador's house for a swim and a barbeque ! (see pics) Following that, I went with Bruce to a house party down the street from my Guest House with about 40 other expatriates, most of whom work for various NGOs.
So today is Sunday, I have the day to myself and took a long walk around Kigali. I saw the UN offices and the Amahoro Soccer Stadium. (I can walk for about an hour before the effects of the altitude get to me.) On my walks, I am the only white person and I've begun to wonder whether I am in fact the only redhead in Rwanda ! The locals are friendly, although quite guarded. I've made a point of saying hello in Kinyarwanda or striking up a conversation with those that just stare at me. Mostly what I find is that once you initiate conversation, the locals are quite friendly. There are a fair amount of people begging for money/food. It is often very difficult to turn away. My first experience with this was a young boy of 10 who approached me with his hands out asking for money. I spoke to him in French, asking him his name and how he was- and with a little smile he said "Olivier". Once we established that I had no money to give him, we began talking. The next day when I saw him again, he asked for money once more. "Olivier? Comment ca va?" He seemed very surprised and pleased that I remembered his name and began to walk with me for some time. Eventually he informed me- ("no france ma'am") that despite his very French sounding name, he himself does not speak french- probably as a result of not having gone to school. The next interesting kid I met was Vincent, who at 17 years of age, introduced himself to me as a "businessman". He said he had many Canadian contacts and wanted to be sure that I remember his face. He was quite the charmer.
Since I am the only VSO who has arrived at this time, I am finding that most things require initiative and a resourceful and patient attitude. I am alone at this guest house and have had to find ways to answer my own questions. I asked the desk clerk at the hotel to describe the phone card system to me and where to catch a bus and how to find a forexe to exchange money. I imagine that volunteers that arrive together (and have 10 days of training to my 2) would find these things out together. I am a bit disappointed that that's the case however I think in the long run, it will be useful to be self-reliant.
Since this is my first blog, I have kept it mostly fact-based. In future entries I will try to be more descriptive and tell you more about the amazing landscapes, sights, sounds, smells and experiences. So far, there is nothing I miss from home even though it is a challenging living environment here. I actually bought Eckhart Tolle's book "The Power of Now" at the airport but funnily enough I don't think I'll need to read it. Each day here MUST be lived one moment at a time because I don't know what comes next. It is fascinating, intimidating and fulfilling all at once. I catch myself wondering if I will make it through the 12 months and then I'm reminded that I need not measure everything as good or bad, success or failure- I feel so blessed to be here !