This is Rwanda

David asked me yesterday what the view from my window was and I did an inadequate job of describing it to him. Basically, I feel inhibited by my vocabulary. Think of the green hills of Scotland, now picture them in all four directions with a backdrop of marshmallow-white clouds and perfect blue sky. The green is really green. You know when you buy a set of pencil crayons (not the 12pak but the 64pak) and there are like 8 different shades of green? Yeah, that's the foliage in Rwanda -all eight pencil crayons! The temperature hovers around 24-27 with a cool breeze- it's the rainy season. The birds make strange sounds pretty much 24/7 with a range of chirping, hooting, clucking, doorbell rings and what can only be described as "angry bird singing". In particular the one that lives outside my window- (although I have no idea what I've done to piss him off.) The air is very fragrant, even so much as stopping to acknowledge the perfume aroma near a purple bush. Today I experienced my first rain storm- as I was trying to nap no less ! and the buckets of rain made me dream of being inside a washing machine on rinse cycle. The rolling thunder was like a giant's grumbling hungry belly. (I did end up going down to the lobby to chat with my friends at the frontdesk during the storm- not that I was scared or anything?! )
The street is in constant motion. At the nearest intersection to my guest house, there are always around 60 or so people- mostly men ages 25-40-milling about. They chuckle, whistle and stare. For the most part, I greet this with a "Miriwe" or "Bonjour, comment ca va?". In training we learned the importance of making local contacts and somehow I think that friendliness will pay off in the end. I spoke earlier of the "guarded" nature of Rwandans. One can only imagine the motivation behind their wariness of others. The important thing I've noticed is that after a smile and a hello, most locals become quite friendly. I have had several very helpful encounters with complete strangers. At the bank (for the second time today I was denied an account), a young man asked if he could help me and then after my exchange at the teller, followed up to see if I had gotten what I needed. At the local store, the clerk gave back the extra francs I had accidentally paid her- (any advice on how to convert from Canadian $1 to $500 Rfr more quickly would be greatly appreciated- my human calculator is broken). When I have encountered challenges, right alongside them seems to be a Rwandan stranger, intent on helping me solve the problem.
Now, I'm not sure how to describe the darker side I've seen. It is in no way reflective of the nature of Rwandans, but merely their unfortunate circumstances. I'm fairly certain that I have not yet processed all that I've seen. Here it is in "Coles Notes" version. There are many people here missing limbs. I had to say "no" to a man on crutches today who was selling batik because I had no francs. I was actively pursued by two limbless men in wheelchairs in downtown Kigali. Women with babies at their breasts beg me for money in groups. A little boy lifted up his shirt to pat his belly and asked for food. I have decided to take this all in and acknowledge that I cannot possibly help them financially. Instead I will greet every person I see with eye contact, a warm smile and speak what little kinyarwanda I know. I recognize how insufficient and lacking this approach is but my humanity is all I can afford to offer.
In my conversations with David and Leah last night, the subject of the genocide came up. It is hard for me to think about it but also impossible not to. I realize that the people I pass on the street are not all victims, some are perpetrators. My guest house faces Chez Lando where horrible things happened and on the way to town you pass a church that Dallaire speaks about in his book. I wanted to write the truth about what I'm seeing and feeling. No matter how difficult. Not to worry, my next post (which I'm going to write momentarily) will have you chuckling at my expense as I describe my logistical nightmare- here's a preview: my house has no roof.. "you move in, it's okay, maybe we fix?"
Thanks for reading.